Dysert O'Dea Romanesque Church and Saint Tola's High Cross
It's difficult to think of a more enchanting place to visit than Dysert O'Dea in County Clare.
There's a wealth of historic attractions and some wonderful walking to be enjoyed in this area which is both tranquil and bucolic.
The ancient ecclesiastical site is an absolute must see for anyone with an interest in Romanesque or Hiberno-Romanesque architecture.
Among some of the antiquities of interest in this small area are Saint Tola's High Cross, Dysert O'Dea Church ruins with Romanesque archway and window and the partial ruins of a Round Tower.
Saint Tola was reputedly born in the 7th century possibly near Dysert Gallen in County Laois
and died in the 8th century c. 733 or 737.
Later in life he is associated with Delvin in County Westmeath, Clonard in County Meath and finally
with Dysert Tola, today called Dysert O'Dea in County Clare.
The Church has a varied and mixed history and is a multi period ruin having been altered, restored and refurbished over the many intervening centuries since its initial construction.
There was probably a wooden Church here in the 7th century or perhaps even earlier. Sometime in the 12th century a stone Romanesque Church was built.
In the 13th century the Church was altered and over the subsequent centuries it began to fall into ruin and decay. It's believed to have been repaired in the late 1600's.
This included inserting the Romanesque doorway and reinstalling several windows. No doubt further repairs and alterations have followed during the intervening period.
The Romanesque doorway is nothing other than utterly stunning.
There are 19 carved heads on it which include human faces of European, central Asian and Far Eastern origin. There are also both animal heads and mythological beasts.
Both the Romanesque Window and doorway are covered in various Chevrons and interlace of Scandinavian influence in the Urnes style. There are four orders of columns flanking either side of the doorway.
There are also a lot of hidden details on and in the Church including a further carving of a human face positioned upside down.
The Romanesque window is also a reconstituted artifact and probably a composite of different origins but this does not detract from its beauty nor interest in the least.
Saint Tola's High Cross is located nearby and within view of the Church. It is probably one of the more interesting High Crosses in Ireland given its design.
It is covered in interlace and interlocking knotwork with both mythical and human figures depicted while the crucifixion is carved onto one face in bold high relief above an ecclesiastic figure holding a Crozier.
There are also carvings on the large base and the Cross as already mentioned is quite beautiful in design and wonderful to see up close and in person.
The partial Round Tower remains I can find no reliable date for although both the 11th and 12th century have been mentioned by some sources.
To the best of my knowledge all Irish Round towers were constructed sometime between the 9th and 12th centuries.
Not far from the site is Dysert O'Dea Castle, an Irish Tower House. There is a Fulacht Fiadh here and some megalithic remains of indeterminate purpose which may be of interest to the more curious or inquisitive visitor.
Saint Tola's Well is also nearby but somehow I missed it on my visit.
I've included details below of a nearby Sheela na Gig.
Keep the wheels turning.
Dysert O'Dea : Co-ordinates here -
52°54'31.4"N 9°04'06.8"W
Sources and further reading:
Clare Library - Saint Tola's Cross
Corpus of Romanesque Sculpture in Britain and Ireland
County Clare Heritage Office - Saint Tola's Well
Discover Ireland Clare archaeology centre
Clare County Library - Dysert O'Dea Church
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Dysert O'Dea Tower House and Fulacht Fiadh
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About 2 Kilometres nortwest of Dysert O'Dea is an old historical ruined Church at Rath, County Clare. Here you can find a badly worn Sheela na Gig next to a 12th century window carving.
It is positioned upside down if you can spot it.
There may have been a Church here going as far back as the 9th century and a Round Tower that once stood on this site was demolished sometime in the 1800's.
Coordinates here:
52°55'02.8"N 9°05'07.7"W
52.917431, -9.085464